Helmut Newton, Le smoking, 1975,
‘Le Smoking’ by Helmut Newton is considered to be an iconic fashion image because of how Newton popularises the tuxedo suit designed by Yves Saint Laurent. This image was empowering for women as it gives them an option to wear clothing that is usually worn by powerful men. At the time this image was very controversial as stereotypically women were dressed in frilly dresses and not tuxedo suits. Together the designer Yves Saint Laurent and Helmut Newton have made a big impact on our lives by making trousers a popular clothing choice for women.
ClothingThe style of the clothing is very androgynous as the model is wearing a three piece suit which was normally worn by men at that period of time. Yves Saint Laurent was the designer of the tuxedo suit and was seen by many as having empowered women by giving them the option to wear clothes that were normally worn by men. The designer first sent out a model in a tuxedo suit in 1966 he's aim was to free women from the trappings of feminine. This image was very controversial at the time because of the clothing the model was wearing as it dismisses the stereotypical view of a women.
Setting and context
Photographing the model at night and in a small side street adds a very dramatic atmosphere to the image. The dramatic feels emphasises the power that is usually associated with people wearing suits as the model looks as if she is in a very dark and dangerous area. Even though the model is female she doesn’t look vulnerable in a dark street because of the styling and the clothing as it makes her look very powerful.
Hair & Make-up
This image echoes the inspiration that the ‘Le Smoking tuxedo suit’ by Yves Saint Laurent had on women. By styling the model in a very androgynous way with slicked back hair and natural make up gives a more manly impression to the model, this type of styling was very controversial at the time as its not the stereotypical way a women looks.
Lighting
The photograph is only lit by the street lamps as the image was taken at night. This has given the image a very dramatic feel as it creates harsh shadows which contrasts against the illuminated areas of the photo and makes it stand out. The lighting choice has made the model appear more powerful as she is out at night in a small street which could be dangerous for a women however as she is wearing a suit it makes her appear less vulnerable because of how they are usually associated with strong and powerful men.
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